The Muira is a classic climbing shoe from La Sportiva. Is it the right shoe for you? Read on to find out.
The Muira is designed to be a high performing rock shoe that climbs very well on edges and pockets. It is an extremely popular model. The original has been in La Sportiva’s climbing shoe lineup for over ten years, and there are now three other versions of the shoe.
The Miura is a lace up shoe with a convenient speed lacing system. The upper is made of leather and is lined, so it should stretch some with use, but not very much. The Muira is constructed on a downturned and highly asymmetrical last that focuses power to the big toe. This climbing shoe has a highly tensioned slingshot rand that is tied into the powerhinge on the sole. This design is used so that the back half of the shoe stretches instead of the front when small edges are weighted, thus providing the climber with more stability and control on very small footholds. To further increase this climbing shoe’s ability to edge, the sole is 4mm of Vibram XS Edge rubber, which is supposed to hold its form better when weighted on small edges. All of these features lead to the Muira having a hefty price tag of $140.
I have worn the Muira while climbing in the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. It is a fantastic, high performance rock shoe. It edges extremely well, making some fairly tiny footholds feel as secure as large ledges. The pointy toe is also excellent for frontpointing into small pockets, and this climbing shoe’s design really focuses power onto the big toe. The Muira really shines on vertical to overhanging terrain. I found the speed lacing system to be quite functional, and the shoe to be pretty comfortable for its aggressive nature.
The weakest spot of the Muira’s performance is smearing. The rubber is hard and holds an edge extremely well, but is not as sticky or supple as some other rubbers. The shoe is not very sensitive, and the tension of the shoe makes smearing a bit difficult. These tradeoffs, however, help make the Muira one of the best rock shoes in the world for technical edging and pocketed climbs. You can’t have it all.
The Muira is a great climbing shoe for vertical to overhanging climbing. La Sportiva’s shoes tend to best fit people with narrow to medium foot volumes. If the Muira fits your foot and your climbing style, and you have $140 to spend on a climbing shoe, then I highly recommend it.
To read a review of a great La Sportiva climbing shoe that did not work for me as well as the Muira, click here. If you want to read some other reviews of rock shoes, click here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here. If you are new to climbing, then the Muira is not the right rock shoe for you, for reasons that you can read about here. You can figure out which climbing shoe is the one for you, however, if your read that last link and then read this. Have fun climbing!